After breakfast I took a mini tour of the city, taking in the Royal
Palace and Silver Pagoda, Choeung Ek, and Tuol Sleng Museum.
The Royal Palace is stunning, and serene. Buddhist monks are seen
everywhere within the palace compound, loitering with religious intent
no doubt...
The magnificent temples and shrines are what really pull you, none
more so than the Silver Pagoda. The floor is covered with 5,000 silver
tiles, most of which are covered up with carpet for protection. The
building was reconstructed in 1962 to replace the previous wooden
structure. It survived the years of khmer Rouge, thanks to the ruling
party's wish to show the world it's "concern for the conservation of
Cambodia's cultural riches"... Although most of the contents were
wrecked or looted during this time. The pagoda is home to the Emerald
Budda , said to be made from Bacarat crystal, as well as a gold
sculpture of the enlightened one, inset with thousands of diamonds.
Better accessories than a Maybach Zeppelin eh Unc?
The palace is the official residence of King Sihanoni, so in many
areas of the grounds access is prohibitted. But what is on show is
fantastic.
Choeung Ek is home to the Cambodian Genocidal Museum. During the rule
of Pol Pot, it was a centre for the extermination of tens of tousands
of Cambodians, many from the notorious S-21 interragation centre in
Phnom Penh.
This was the killing fields. Men, women and children were brutaly
killed here, their bodies dumped in unmarked mass graves. The skulls
of some 7,000 bodies, foreigners as well as Cambodians are on display
in a memorial stupa. All around you can see pits, where the bodies
were disinterred.
It is a peaceful place today, but very sad. I left this place with
bitterness , anger, pity and sorrow. At least I got to leave.
My moto driver asks me if I want to "shoot guns". I shake my head,
both in the negative and disbelief.
In 1978, two journalists following the Vietnamese march on Phnom Penh
stumbled across a group of buildings, which they discovered were the
head offices of the Khmer Rouge Security Department. They found
instruments of torture, and 14 recently killed people, one of whom was
female.
The "exhibits" on show at Toul Sleng Museum show what must be the
darkest side of mankind, ever. This was the sight of a former high
school, which was turned into a torture and interogation center by the
Khmer Rouge. What you see here, you will take with you for a long
time. The attrocities carried out here by Cambodians UPON Cambodians
beggars belief. It seems the human mind is limitless in it's ingenuity
to cause pain, suffering, and death. In building 2, there are photos,
or rather mugshots, of thousands of those poor souls who had the
misfortune to make this their penultimate stay on this earth. Figures
are not accurate, as some records were destroyed prior to the
Vietnamese invasion, but records available show that over 7,000 men,
women and children came through S-21. The chance of release without
charge, nearly none. Between 1975 & 1979, just seven Cambodians walked
out alive.
On near the exit is a stall, selling the usual tourist souvinirs.
Somehow I just don't feel like buying an "I LOVE CAMBODIA" teeshirt...
Edward Teague: Blogger known as 'Postman Patel
15 years ago
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