My last posting

Well, I was going to drone on and on about what is wrong with this country, and why, and how I really hope Cambodia grows into what it once was, I had all my notes, and even typed it out, ready for posting.  Then I went for a walk around town this morning. I was as good as packed up, and thought I’d have just one last look around Siem Reap. I saw the chap who picked me up at the airport, who I see most days. He wished me well and asked when I was coming back. I saw several familiar market traders, they all said much the same, and asked about my return.

I returned to the Golden Villa to clear out my room, and to check out. On check-out, Richard, the Manager, scooted me outside as he wanted his picture taken with me, as did Kia, Kum San, Marada, Seang, and nearly all of the staff.

And so today I wept like a baby… I am so sad to be leaving Cambodia and the people I have got to know here. Today I have received gifts that mean so much to me. I will never ever forget this beautiful, crazy mixed up country. More importantly, I will always remember the people I have met, and the marks they have left on me.

I came to Cambodia on my own, for a relaxing holiday, and got so much more than I bargained for. But I leave with more than that with which I came. I leave, with friendships, and memories.

So, did I “find” Cambodia?

Well I’m not sure if it wasn’t the other way around...

Geoff Teague, a man rambling home.

Jet lag

I'm coming home!

Walked over to the crocodile farm today, (bet they don’t get too many trespassers of a night time). It was quite sad really, hundreds of them all crammed in together. Quite a few had missing tails, and feet, probably from fighting. They hardly move about at all, unless of course provoked by the unkind keeper, who seemed quite content to get one mother to back away from it’s clutch of eggs, by repeatedly whacking it on the head with a huge pole before removing the eggs to take to the hatchery, (for hatchery read “any one of a number of restaurants in Phnom Penh). I did feel sorry for them, even if they wouldn’t think twice about tearing me limb from limb. Mind you, there’s not much of a meal of me is there? Next stop for these poor chaps is probably Prada.

 

Also saw a novel way of fishing, using a duckling as bait, as well as the traditional net casting. The Duckling method seemed to be more successful…

Hospital

The Kantha Bopha hospitals, as I have mentioned run on charitable donations. Their average spend is around $127 per admission, of which there are many today, as there is an epidemic of dengue fever sweeping through the country. A delegation from the World Health Organization, after a recent extensive tour of the Jayavarman VII Children’s hospital in Siem Reap, declared that this was too much to be spending on one child. That they said this, while staying at a hotel not 80 metres from the hospital, at a cost of $340 per person, per night is simply incredible…

 

I went to the hospital today to make a donation, as it was not feasible on the night of the Bach concert I attended. The queues of parents with their young, about 500 metres, and this was at one o’clock in the afternoon. One of the doctors told me it had been like that since eight that morning, the same every day now for four days. Without their help, most of these children will die.

 

So, it was with great pride that I made my donation. But they need more. If anyone who reads this comes to Cambodia, please visit Siem Reap and the Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital. Make a donation and save a life.

 

For further information on Kantha Bopha, and the work of Dr. Beat Richner, please click on the “Dr. Beat Richner”’ link at the top of this blog.

 

Thank you.

Apsara

Sorry about absence everyone, have been doing a lot of reading over the past few days. Went to an Apsara dance last night. This is the traditional Cambodian dance. It can take four years to train as dancer. The Apsara is a female spirit of water, or cloud, in Buddhist and Hindu mythology. They have often been compared to the muses, and sirens in Greek mythology. They are court servants of Indra, (the God of war and weather), and husbands of male nature spirits. They dance, in the palaces of the gods to music played by their husbands.

Thank you, Wikipedia...

Ps. Postcards are on their way!

Golf in Siem Reap

Tropical thunderstorm

Another relaxing day

Had another relaxing day, went for a walk to the Independence Gardens in search of butterflies. Was approached by a young girl, Pisey, who wanted my time for an hour so that she and her friend, Laing could practice their English with me. It was wonderful. We had a long chat about Cambodia, their school, (Pisey cycles 24 km to school every day, Laing cycles 27 km… that’s 48km and 54km a day respectively), and spoke about England, and Manchester. It was too short a time before they had to get back to school, and we parted. Outside the pagoda on the gardens, I was offered two birds (feathered) for a dollar, Lord knows what I’m gonna do with them…

 

Tonight the Gods decided to show their might, I have now experienced a tropical thunderstorm. It was absolutely bucketing it down. Walked into town to get some footage, no small feat for me, as Thunder and lightning terrifies the bejeezus out of me. Got absolutely drenched. But what a show it was!

From the Phnom Penh Post, April 24 2009...

Man accidentally beaten to death

Police have arrested three gangsters suspected of beating to death Cheam Sim, 29 on Monday after the men assumed the victim was having intimate relations with one of their girlfriens. The men mistook the victims wife and child, who were passengers on his motorbike, for one of the gangsters girlfriends, in Trapaing Chhouk village, Baray district, Kampong Thom province.

 

 

Love goes wrong, prompting suicide

Sok Vy, 24, committed suicide behind his house in Pur Leang village, Kandieng district, Pursat province, on Tuesday. Witnesses say the man was engaged in a lengthy phone conversation prior to the incident, which led villagers to believe “that it was love gone wrong”

 

 

Beer girl brawl in Battambang

Competitive beer girls at Bopha Tip Restaurant, Battambang province, were seriously wounded after a glass fight erupted over “who could sell more beer”. An oral argument between Bou Vy and Ngory Dy ended violently Monday with both women exchanging blows using beer bottles and glasses.

 

 

I was present at none of the above, but may have been in the area, and have a good alibi for all events…

 

Traffic and beer report

For Mr. Steve Kerwin

Not a brilliant picture I know, but is IS a tractor none the less!

Riverboat photo's

Riverboat passage to Siem Reap

Mr. Ok picked me up at 0630, to take me to the dock to meet my boat for the trip back to Siem Reap. It’s not quite like the picture on the ticket, and “the head” is a daunting experience to say the least… the very least.

 

The trip takes about 7 hours in the dry season, as the shallow waters are tricky to navigate. Getting stranded on a sandbank, or breaking down is quite common, but I trust the crew. Some of them have been sailing this route for days, so they tell me.

 

I would recommend the boat trip over a coach route any day. The scenery is fabulous! Floating villages, stilt houses, Fishing communities, floating markets, and the amazing Tonle Sap Lake. It is a relaxing and serene trip, with just the occasional scrape on the river bed, and a minor engine repair on the lake, which gives us time to take in the sheer vastness of this, South Asia’s largest body of inland water, fed by the Himalayas.

 

I catch sight of a few adjutant storks, and some herons while we wait for a spare part while drifting along silently on the lake.

 

Before long, the repair is effected, and half an hour later we dock at Phnom Kron. Just a short moto ride from Siem Reap. It’s good to be back.

Bamboo railway

After breakfast, (at a certain little bistro) I was picked up by my driver and guide for the day, Mr. Ok. He took me to the famous bamboo railway, a very exciting time. watch the video for more. He then took me to see how rice pancakes are made, which was both informative and interesting to have a go at. My efforts made it as far as the rubbish heap though. I use too much mixture and am scolded repeatedly by the old lady, who appears to be the boss round these parts. 

Mr. Ok then took me to Wat Ek Phnom, a temple built in the 11th Century. a cpouple of young orphans, (they always seem to be orphans) befriend me and are genuinely helpful, showing me some of the most interesting parts of the ruin. it's amazing how far you can get with pigeon English/Khmer!

After this, I buy lunch for Mr. Ok, and my two new friends, before departing for Battambang.

I went for a walk to look at the interesting Naga sculpture by the river. It is built using parts of weapons, and armaments seized during the Vietnamese invasion. 

I decide to eat at the usual establishment, before retiring early for the night. I must be up for 0630 for my trip back to Siem Reap.

The road to Battambang

Was up at 0520 for a pick up at 0620. When I got on the bus, I was more than pleased to discover that even $5 gets you air con! However, if it wasn’t for my ipod, I may have strangled the driver thouigh. His habit of leaning on the horn every thirty seconds, (or so it seemed) would have driven me to actions rewarded with a few years in a Cambodian jail, if it were not for Exile on Main Street, Death Magnetic, and Exit Planet Dust on full volume, (Thank you Steve Jobs!). We had a stop for food at one of Cambodia’s “Little Chefs”, and arrived in Battambang safely. My accommodation is better than that in Phnom Penh, but still not up to the luxury of The Golden Temple Villa in Siem Reap. However there are things I wanted to see in this area, more later. Found a cool eatery, the Gecko Café. Staffed totally by females… my gratuity of drinks all round after work was politely declined…

The Silver Pagoda

A hard day for the soul...

After breakfast I took a mini tour of the city, taking in the Royal  
Palace and Silver Pagoda, Choeung Ek, and Tuol Sleng Museum.

The Royal Palace is stunning, and serene. Buddhist monks are seen  
everywhere within the palace compound, loitering with religious intent  
no doubt...

The magnificent temples and shrines are what really pull you, none  
more so than the Silver Pagoda. The floor is covered with 5,000 silver  
tiles, most of which are covered up with carpet for protection. The  
building was reconstructed in 1962 to replace the previous wooden  
structure. It survived the years of khmer Rouge, thanks to the ruling  
party's wish to show the world it's "concern for the conservation of  
Cambodia's cultural riches"... Although most of the contents were  
wrecked or looted during this time. The pagoda is home to the Emerald  
Budda , said to be made from Bacarat crystal, as well as a gold  
sculpture of the enlightened one, inset with thousands of diamonds.  
Better accessories than a Maybach Zeppelin eh Unc?

The palace is the official residence of King Sihanoni, so in many  
areas of the grounds access is prohibitted. But what is on show is  
fantastic.

Choeung Ek is home to the Cambodian Genocidal Museum. During the rule  
of Pol Pot, it was a centre for the extermination of tens of tousands  
of Cambodians, many from the notorious S-21 interragation centre in  
Phnom Penh.

This was the killing fields. Men, women and children were brutaly  
killed here, their bodies dumped in unmarked mass graves. The skulls  
of some 7,000 bodies, foreigners as well as Cambodians are on display  
in a memorial stupa. All around you can see pits, where the bodies  
were disinterred.

It is a peaceful place today, but very sad. I left this place with  
bitterness , anger, pity and sorrow. At least I got to leave.

My moto driver asks me if I want to "shoot guns". I shake my head,  
both in the negative and disbelief.

In 1978, two journalists following the Vietnamese march on Phnom Penh  
stumbled across a group of buildings, which they discovered were the  
head offices of the Khmer Rouge Security Department. They found  
instruments of torture, and 14 recently killed people, one of whom was  
female.

The "exhibits" on show at Toul Sleng Museum show what must be the  
darkest side of mankind, ever. This was the sight of a former high  
school, which was turned into a torture and interogation center by the  
Khmer Rouge. What you see here, you will take with you for a long  
time. The attrocities carried out here by Cambodians UPON Cambodians  
beggars belief. It seems the human mind is limitless in it's ingenuity  
to cause pain, suffering, and death. In building 2, there are photos,  
or rather mugshots, of thousands of those poor souls who had the  
misfortune to make this their penultimate stay on this earth. Figures  
are not accurate, as some records were destroyed prior to the  
Vietnamese invasion, but records available show that over 7,000 men,  
women and children came through S-21. The chance of release without  
charge, nearly none. Between 1975 & 1979, just seven Cambodians walked  
out alive.

On near the exit is a stall, selling the usual tourist souvinirs.  
Somehow I just don't feel like buying an "I LOVE CAMBODIA" teeshirt...

Pnomh Penh sunset

The road to Phnom Penh

Was up at 0600 for my 0700 ride to the "bus station". At the Siem Reap  
depot, exhaust fumes from around thirty buses and coaches, combined  
with the intense heat produce an atmosphere I can only describe as  
"claggy". Shaded areas are like gold dust, and the street vendors are  
out in force.

Getting on an air-conditioned coach is a blessed relief, until the  
seating arrangements come into play. My ticket says seat 47, I got  
moved four times, and each time, "Blakey" wants to check my ticket...

Eventually, the 0800 coach to Phnom Penh pulls out at 0830. Water is  
handed out to the passengers, but where's my breakfast?

We stop along the way in a small town in Kampongtom Province. Just a  
quick break to stretch the legs. The heat is intense, but dry, unlike  
that in Siem Reap.

The chap sitting next to me turns out to be a journalist for TV5,  
translating news reports from CNN and the BBC into Khmer.

On the outskirts of Phon Penh I see my first rain, bucketting down for  
about twenty monies, then it is gone.

Arriving in the city is quite daunting, having heard tales of armed  
muggings and ride-by bag snatchers, so I got a moto asap and went to  
lakeside for accommodation.

The rooms on offer are cheap, between $2 & $10, but are nothing like  
the Golden Temple!

After a good fish amok I went for a couple of beers and saw the famous  
Pnom Penh sunset. A wonderful end to a long day...

Hiya! Back in Siem Reap, missing blogs to follow, just nedd a lie down in a dark room while someone rubs me down with a damp copy of the Phnom Penh news...

Slight change in itinerary

hello all!

 

Slight change of plan, I am now in Battambang for a couple of days, then hoping to make the river trip back to Siem Reap, water levels allowing! Will have blogs on line for the missing days upon my return, as they are all on my laptop. Take care yáll!

 

 

I am alive and well, if a little depressed at the football result last night... (Cheer up Thomas, we all knew five was going to be hard, and yes! it should've been a penalty. Fancy that, Riley NOT giving us the spot kick?)

Arrived safely in the capital, (Capital?). More informationn to follow, as power at the "hotel" is not to be trusted. Will be going on "The Grand Tour" today, and then will be on my way tomorrow! Later guys! ;)

Farewell Siem Reap, I'll be back on Wednesday!

Sent from my iPod touch.

Beatocello

Dr Beat Richner worked at the Kantha Bopha Children’s Hospital in Phnom Penh prior to the Khmer Rouge takeover in 1975.

 

In 1991 the then king, His Majesty King Sihanouk asked Dr. Richner if he would rebuild the hospital he once worked in. The Kantha Bopha I was officially opened by the King, just one year later.

 

Dr Beat Richner has since built and runs five more hospitals, including the Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital in Siem Reap.

 

80% of all the work carried out, and the care provided comes from charitable donations. These hospitals treat over 600,000 children annually, and it is estimated that with out the medical aid the hospitals administer, over 2,800 children would die every month.

Get your piles seen to as soon as possible

The market in Siem Reap, a bustling assault on all the senses, most notably in the food hall, where the olfactory attack is at it’s highest, especially towards the end of the day. Purchases are made here with a simple nod off the head, so sunglasses are a must to avoid eye contact, unless you want to go away with two dozen crayfish!

 

Elsewhere the stall holders, mainly children, are so enthusiastic to part you and your money that it would become irritating if it were not for the happy nature of them all. Bartering is a way of life for these people, and you have to play your part. Haggling over the price is a must, but one has to bear in mind that these sellers make literally cents on each sale. Bargains can be found, and expect the usual tourist souvenirs, as well as some truly original local handicrafts. Bootlegging seems to be a national industry, expect to pay around $5 for Microsoft Office 2008, $2 for chart cd’s and $5 for not yet seen films on dvd.  If reading is your thing, books are plentiful, many on the recent troubles within the country, as well as mainstream bestsellers, between $2 and $4 each. These again are just cheap copies, don’t expect them to survive the trip home!

 

The Boom Boom Room is a must for music fans, they will load an album onto your iPod for as little as 75c. The musical collection offered is both vast and varied, covering rock, pop, jazz, blues, country etc.

 

After dark, the chance to shop is at the Night Market, which closes around midnight, with much the same fare on offer, with a bar for us blokes to spend time in whilst the women shop… A brilliant idea that could do with exporting back to dear old Blighty!

 

Well, tonight I am off to watch the Arsenal vs Chelski game, and have decided to blow the lot on an Arsenal win, That’s £8 billion Edward, and I’ll let you have the draw! Tomorrow I am off to the den of iniquity that is Phnom Penh for a few days, so I may be offline for a while. Fear not! I will be fine.

Was up at 0700hrs local time, for a little walk out of town on the North today. It was pretty warm even then, and it just got hotter as the day progressed… Went to Preah Ang Chek temple, and Preah Ang Chom shrine, just by the Royal Independence Gardens. The gardens were very pleasant, and I have to say I was grateful for the shade of the trees. Also, close by is the Royal Residence, which you could easily miss if you weren’t aware of it’s presence.

Further along the road, stand the Jayavarman VII children’s hospital, run totally on money donated and funding from outside the country. The visitors center is very inspiring, and after the introductory presentation, you feel almost duty bound to help the cause. The people who envisioned this have worked tirelessly to provide free medical treatment to the children of Cambodia. I will be returning on Saturday to see a local legend. Beatocello, or Dr. Beat Rechner performs an evening cello concert, to raise both awareness and funding for the hospital.

After walking further down the road, I was turned back, as I was straying into Angkor City. On the walk back it became apparent how warm it had got. I had already used 4 liters of water! After a break at a coffee shop, I made my way back to the hotel with a slight case of prickly heat.

In the evening, when it was bearable out, went into town for dinner. A lovely Khmer curry at The Banana Leaf. A well-earned meal, while sat people-watching in the warm evening breeze whilst being occasionally propositioned by ladies of negotiable affection!

On returning to the hotel, I was heartened to see that the restaurant staff had returned from their New Years break with their families. Roll on Breakfast tomorrow!

Money...

Local News

From the Phnomm Penh Post, April 14th 2009

A Malaysian man was sentenced to 25 weeks in jail for stealing 80 pairs of women’s panties, a media report said Saturday. The Star Newspaper said Zunaidi Ismail, a 34 year old unemployed man from Borneo Island had admitted stealing the underwear from an apartment occupied by nursing students in three separate break-ins. The underwear was worth a total of US$77, it said. In mitigation, Zunaidi told the court he stole the underwear to resell at a secondhand clothing market.

Late news...

The grasping hand is forever empty, for it to be full, the hand must be a giving one...

God! I love the smell of DEET in the morning!

Up at 0700 local time and off for a walk out of the city on the Airport Road. The weather, as yesterday was overcast and humid, so I was keen to get all my walking done before noon. The streets are very busy today as it is the third day, or Tanai Lieang Saka,  of celebrations for the Khmer New Year. The locals visit the temples, to make offerings of prayer, and money. In the temple grounds, the Monks erect a huge dome of sand, surrounded by four smaller hillocks. The central Hill represents Culamuni Cetiya, The stupa, a similar mound at Tavatimsa, where the Buddha's hair is buried, along with his diadem (a type of crown). The four smaller surrounding hills of sand represent Sariputta, Moggallana, Ananda and Maha Kassapa, the Buddha's favourite disciples.

These hillocks are adorned with ribbons, and burning incense sticks, filling the hot air all around with the smell of Jasmine.

One of the temples I visited had a disturbing collection of skulls and bones, collected from surrounding fields, of those executed by the Khmer Rouge...

What do you mean, it's a bloke?

Last night saw the start of the Khmer New Years Celebrations. At this time it is customary for people to leave the cities and visit with family in the country. Many do, but times have changed and the young tend to stay and party. Drinking and dancing in the street until about 0400hrs this morning! And with the crowds come the "lady boys". They are fairly easy to point out, but it would seem that a few of the Americans, after too many beers were somewhat visually impaired. There were a lot of very embarrassed and sheepish looking yanks at breakfast this morning I can tell you! Well today has been a rest day for me, chilling out and going through the photos from yesterday. Hoping to make the trip to Phnom Penh later in the week for a few days.

Nature always wins...

Whilst at Bayon temple I got to go head to head (or rather nose to nose) with Buddha! One of the more famous of the temples, as featured in the "Tomb Raider" movie, was also on the agenda. Ta Prohm temple is quite remarkable in that the forest is claiming it back slowly but surely, with remarkable results. 

Sunrise, temples, monkeys and elephants!

Well, what a day! 

Woke at 0400 as My guide was due to pick me up at 0500. we made our way to Ankor Wat, and on the way Akara, (my enthusiastic guide) introduced himself to me. upon arrival, we were fast-tracked through the admissions gate and made our way to Angkor Wat. We sat by the moat as he told me of the history of the impressive edifice that was still in darkness. as the sun clawed it's way upwards, the true majesty of the temple revealed itself with every moment. we made our way over the moat and through the gate to a perfect viewing area. I don't really know quite how to describe the next fifteen or so minutes... When the Gods want to put on a show, they don't muck about. It was awe inspiring. and I have to admit brought tears to my eyes. It is one thing to see a picture of the sun rising over the five towers of Angkor Wat, but to experience the moment... as the sun peered over the cloud, there was a collective sigh of awe from the hundreds of people gathered there. A truly moving experience, after which I needed a few minutes to compose myself. Next it was off to have breakfast before viewing my next favourite temple, Bayon, in Angkor Thom...

Have you ever had the feeling that someone is watching you? Bayon temple is built of 54 towers, to represent the 54 Provinces of old Cambodia. on each tower are four large heads, facing North, East, South, and West, (216 in all). This signifies the welcome of all people, from all compass points, to the Buddhist faith. 

Moped ride

What a night! met two people from Ireland in the sports bar last night, Marcus and Elaine. They were going over the temple sights with me, and told me it would be best to get a three day pass and take my time. May have to do it next week-end as transport will be a bit scarce over the next few days (most people are going "home" for the Khmer New Year). Unless I hire a bike.

And of course I took a slight wrong turn last night and ended up lost on the way back after the match... got back eventually though, to a cool beer and a lovely cool room... This was, I hasten to add, nothing to do with the copious amounts of beer I consumed. It has been raining in the night, and as the sun comes up, it looks like it may be a clear day. time to break out the SPF 40.

Stuff for sale

Seen in local paper...

Restaurant-

100 person capacity, next to cinema (pearl & dean rubbing hands together) $32,000

Should've been posted yesterday...

Wedding wishes from Kampuchea

Cambodia, or Kampuchea,

First impressions... Flippin' hot! And equally humid. I'ts abot 1930hrs, Friday night and I've been walkabout, or should I say lostabout! The traffic is mental. It's like Jeremy Clarson said in Vietnam, when you want to cross the road, you just stare dead ahead and walk... dont slowdown, speed up or hesitate. the scores of mopeds and tuk-tuks just seem to flow around you. Prices, well, the hotel sells a can of Angkor Beer (My country, My Beer!) at 75c a can. 5%abv and very nice it is too. Cigarettes, bought two packs (14 in a pack for some reason) for 70c. Traditional Khmer meals are between $2 & $3. Went to a local market tonight, and will be back tomorrow, as I need clothes. and a rucksack to bring all my shopping back in! there are some fabulous galleries here with work by local artists. very beautiful. anyway, that's enough for tonight!

It only seems like a few days ago that I had seven weeks to wait, and back then it seemed like forever to wait, and now the day is here, the waiting over. I think that I have packed all that I need, so now it is time to take the first steps of a long and hopefully, a memorable journey.

Excited isn't the word that comes to mind. Although neither am I nervous in any way. This is going to be a great adventure, which, although not quite what I had first planned, will still be very special for me.

My Family and friends, I shall miss you all so much, not being able to chat as often. Unc, Gonna miss you. Leslie, gonna miss you feeding me! Ness, take care. Lise, hope you are getting well. Steve, can't wait for the party! Terry, Sparky and The Boy, see you all real soon! anyone else I forgot, I'll try and mention later.  

Next stop, Dubai!!

Teaser